Sorry bud, I'm pretty sure that your engine will have "Shims" that set the adjustment. It is not a job for the "Average" owner. Here's a couple of vids from youtube on the process of adjusting valves on a KLR This will give you an idea on what the process entails. After watching these vids do a google search for an "Engine repair service manual in Pdf Format"!
It will take a while but sooner or later you will find a "Link" to what you are looking for!Airbag fuse location on 2011 honda crv full version
Usually in a Forum Link. The rest is up to you to research! Im a certified kawasaki technician and have done many valve adjuststments on your year and model. Then measure the shims and subtract that measurment from spec to see what shim diameter is needed. Now you know why it costs so much!
You can try independant shops and maybe get a better price than the dealership. Get a shop manual and read the procedure for adjusting the valves. I do these things for a living. On race motorcycles, valve timing would be adjusted via potential of slots in the cam shaft sprockets, the place they are able to be became around some ranges the two way, previously being tightened up returned. The R valve clearances are adjusted as follows; a million. Loosen the adjustment lock nuts on the valves that require adjustment with a spanner or wrench.
Tighten the lock nuts 5. Re-verify all valve clearances. Trending News.
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How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. Simon P. Hey, Do a search for the relevant manual pdftown. Cheers Simon. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.Today I'll be showin' ya how I adjust the valves on my cutie Ninjette.Simulation of robotic arm in matlab
As you'll soon see it takes quite a while, but its not very difficult or anything. Your owners manual like suggests adjusting them 'bout every miles, but that number is kinda arbitrary if ya know what I mean. If the bike is ridden only by your grandma on Sunday's to get to church via back roads, the valves may only need to be adjusted half that often.
If the bike is ridden at, like, really high rpm's often, the poor little valvies might need to be adjusted twice that often. So yer riding style has a lot to do with how often you'll need to tackle this procedure. I decided my valves needed to be adjusted after I was zoomin' through dah twisties trying to keep up with Ken's friends on bigger bikes for about miles. Ever since that ride my poor little Ninjette, like, hasn't idled smoothly anymore, and the engine is now like slow as a snail climbing through rpm.
These symptoms led me to believe that a valve adjustment is in order. Anywho, to do a valve job you need your engine at room temperature and the bike on its centerstand. Now the official Ninjette service manual says to remove the radiator. Since I tend to adjust my valves pretty often and I hate draining the coolant all the time, I've found a way to avoid doing it. If you haven't changed the coolant in a long time, or its your first time ever adjusting screw and locknut valves, ya probably want to remove the radiator.
However, if, like, yer gonna do this a lot and yer dainty like me, you can drill a hole through the weld that holds the right hand coil mounting bracket onto the bike and can remove the bracket. This allows you to get the valve cover off without removing the radiator. Next I remove the four valve cover bolts. For those of you following along at home who are attempting this without a torque wrench note how loosely these bolts are attached.
If you're more than 6" tall you could probably really crank down on these bolts. Like, I highly suggest you NOT do this. So like whatever, you've been warned. I tap then around the perimeter of the valve cover with either the butt end of a screwdriver or a rubber mallet to loosen the gaskets a bit.
And gently lift and slide the valve cover out the right side of the bike without damaging the gaskets, which should be stuck to the engine. Now I take a large flat blade screwdriver and remove the two plastic screw panel thingies on the lower left of the engine.
Behind the large one is a bolt that I can, like, twist counterclockwise to turn the engine. Behind the small one I can see the timing markings on the flywheel. Using a really big socket wrench with a 14 mm six pointed socket, turn the bolt that cover you just removed counterclockwise until you can see a the TDC bump on the flywheel that like approximately lines up with a notch on the engine case.
When it's set to the right place, the pointy parts of the cylinder 1 cams look like my arms when cheerleading and spelling "Y". If you put your finger on the valve tappets on cylinder 1 now they should, like, wiggle a bit. Anyway, it should look something like this:.
Now we are, like, ready to measure the first pair valves.These bikes are reliable and easy to service, but there are some differences over the years. The and newer models use a shim under bucket arrangement for valve clearance adjustment. Like most instances of screw and locknut vs.
Valve adjustment on a ninja 250 2006 PLZ HELPPPPP?
The older bikes call for a valve clearance inspection every 6, miles, but the newer bikes with shims get an additional 1, miles between checks. Also, the and newer models have done away with the initial valve clearance inspection at miles. While this sounds like a significant reduction in servicing, 7, miles between checks is still a short interval for a shim under bucket street bike. The process for valve inspection is similar.
Remove the valve cover, timing hole and crankshaft hole plugs. Position left cylinder No. Insert the feeler gauge between the cam lobe and rocker arm on the on the and older models. Check the clearance for the all valves of the left cylinder. Record the individual valve clearances on the and newer models. Go ahead and adjust the valve clearances for the left cylinder as necessary on the and older models. Confirm the right cylinder No.Sharp tv usb power
The screw and locknut valve adjustment can be accomplished without further engine disassembly. Hold the adjuster in place when tightening the locknut. The and newer models require camshaft removal to change the shims.
Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service Manual
It is important to keep track of the shim to valve relationship so the replacement shims size can be calculated. The shims should be marked to indicate their thickness. Measure them with a micrometer to double check. Select the correct shims for replacement if necessary. Shoot for the center of the valve clearance range, but side with a greater clearance if it is a close call between two different shims.
If it has a stiff feeling use a smaller gauge. Always check the valve clearances against the specifications in the service manual. Double check the clearance after turning the engine over by hand to make sure everything was adjusted correctly. You must be logged in to post a comment. Insert the feeler gauge between the cam lobe and lifter bucket on the and newer models. Leave a Reply Cancel reply You must be logged in to post a comment.
About Us About Cyclepedia F. Become a Reseller Want to sell Cyclepedia Manuals? Join the Cyclepedia Reseller network by becoming an online affiliate. There's no inventory to take on, nothing to ship and no customer service to deal with. We take care of everything.How to Inspect and Adjust Valve Clearance on a 2011 Ninja 250 Part 4 of 5.
Learn More. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.Remember Me? What's New? Results 1 to 10 of Thread: Ninja valve adjustment help? Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Ninja valve adjustment help? Ok, so this is the first time I've tried working inside an engine. Everything is actually going pretty well, I have the bike apart and can adjust the valve clearances pretty easily. The only problem is that I can't tell when they are adjusted right.
I was adjusting with the correct size feeler gauge and thought I was doing well until I found that one valve wouldn't adjust far enough. Clearly I'm doing something wrong with using the gauges but I don't know how to get it right. Any tips would be muchly helpful, I've decided to give it a rest for the night and put the valve cover back on.
Hopefully I'll be able to figure out what I'm doing wrong in the morning. Alternately, if anyone in the area has experience with feeler gauges and wants to get treated to a meal this weekend for coming over and lending a hand, that would be even more helpful, plus fun.
I don't really understand what you mean I can't imagine you wouldn't be able to close the gap or open it far enough that you wouldn't be able to fit the feeler in BTW be careful torquing up the valve cover when your done, I torqued mine to far and the bolt separated in the engine!
I think the problem is that the angle I have to hold the feeler at to get it between the cam and the rocker makes it feel like there's more resistance on the gauge than there would be if I could get a straight shot.
Originally Posted by lostlogic. Thanks for the tip RMRR, I'll give it a shot if just having rested up isn't enough for me to tell the difference. So I think I've got the feeler gauge thing workin' for me now, and am readjusting the valves to the correct spec. Then I drop a socket into the engine and go to fish it out with my magnetic grabber thingus, but it pulls up the socket plus this: Anyone know what this is and why it is floating around loose in my engine? Where in the engine did you pull it from?
Also, I've found that bending feeler gauges can help get them in the right orientation. They break pretty easily, though. I've been pondering getting a set that are pre-bent, or maybe some brass ones. Anthony '01 Aprilia Falco. Originally Posted by anthony. W00t, all 8 valves now 'feel' right. I wonder if this thing will run when I put it back together. Holy crap! It runs! Now to warm it up and sync the carbs. Thanks for the feedbacks BBOers! Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg Del. All times are GMT The time now is AM.Quick Links.
See also: Service ManualOwner's Manual. Table of Contents. Ninja R.
Page 5 All information contained in this publication is based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. Illustrations and photographs in this publication are intended for reference use only and may not depict actual model component parts. First Edition 1 : Nov. Page 9: How To Use This Manual Be alert for problems and non-scheduled ticular interest for more efficient and con- maintenance.
Special tools, gauges, and Indicates a procedural step or work to be testers that are necessary when servicing done. Model Identification General Specifications Unit Conversion Table To facilitate actual operations, notes, illustra- tions, photographs, cautions, and detailed descriptions have been included in each chapter wherever necessary. Gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, grease seals, circlips or cotter pins must be replaced with new ones whenever disassembled.
Then tighten them according to the specified se- quence to prevent case warpage or deformation which can lead to malfunction. Be sure to maintain proper alignment and use smooth movements when installing. Ball Bearing and Needle Bearing Do not remove pressed ball or needle unless removal is absolutely necessary.
Lubri- cation points are called out throughout this manual, apply the specific oil or grease as specified. Direction of Engine Rotation When rotating the crankshaft by hand, the free play amount of rotating direction will affect the adjustment. Overall Width mm Overall Height 1 mm Wheelbase 1 mm Road Clearance mm 5. Seat Height mm Dry Mass Torque and Locking Agent The initial maintenance is vitally important and must not be neglected.
If too little torque is applied, the bolts and nuts could loosen and fall out. If too much torque is applied, the threads could be sheared off. Use this table for only the bolts and nuts which do not require a specific torque value.
All of the values are for use with dry solvent-cleaned threads. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or a low-flash point solvent to clean the element. If the intake vacuum difference between the two cylinders exceeds the limit, adjust the synchronization. Engine Vacuum Synchronization Less than 2. However, if the motorcycle is not properly handled, the high pressure in- side the fuel line can cause fuel to leak [A] or the hose to burst.
If there is no vacuum pulsation, check the hose line for leak. Valve Clearance Standard: Exhaust 0. If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. Service Limit: Front 1 mm 0.Ok, so I've checked my valve clearances and the exhaust valves are all too tight.
To adjust this it's not as simple as with OHV engines and you have to remove the cams. Originally Posted by noahsark. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure?
I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure. The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves.
Note: This is an example with the measurement It just happens to be MY example. Your results probably WILL vary, so unlike jetting, you can't use 'basline' numbers. This gives you your 'ideal' shim thickness. Late edit by Vex with some updated information: Where I listed the total lash? That's kind of unnecessary. Formatting is a pain in the butt for those to get the spacing so I apologize in advance for that.
Join Date: Nov I know how much of a PITA it is to work and take pics at the same time with dirty hands. Originally Posted by kkim. Originally Posted by VeX.
I was going to say it's running like new, but as we all know from the factory they didn't run nearly this well. How hard was it getting new shims. I don't look forward to waiting months, if mine are out. That depends on how well stocked your local Kawasaki dealer is and which ones you need. I think Vex had his in a matter of days, but I'll let him answer to confirm. I had them in like business days. I was able to re-use most of the shims and only had to order about 3 of them not bad considering there's 8 valves and they were almost all way off.
Record in your service manual the shim thicknesses that you wind up using so the next adjustment goes easier If you KNOW what shims are in there then you don't need to pull the cams on the next check.Wpeinit stuck windows server 2012 r2
Thanks, I wasn't sure if these exact shims were used in other models. How did you go about keeping the engine timed during re installation? You don't You don't time it PER SE until after you get the cams back in: You line the dots up on the cams and in the inspection hole you turn then engine over to 2 T Or 1 T depending on which way you have the cam dots lined up.
Once these three things are all lined up then you can put the CCT in and buckle everything down.Some people make the mistake of using standard inch.
One quick way to tell if the gauges you are using are the proper ones is if the gauge is as thin as a piece of paper. If it's as thick as a dime, that's the wrong size. What happens is that you align the timing mark on the crank, and then take the measurement, or try, and don't realise that the cam lobe is currently pushing the rocker arm down onto the valve. There is no clearance at this point.
Ninja 250 and 300 Valve Clearance Procedure
You need to turn the engine one more full turn until the mark lines up again, and the cam lobe isn't touching the rocker arm. Basically, the engine is in the proper position when the exhaust front wheel side cam lobe is pointing toward the triple clamps, and the intake rear wheel side cam lobe is pointing towards the rear seat. That's when you can take the measurement on that cylinder.
Remember, you need to rotate the engine again when you are lining up the other cylinder. You can't do both cylinders without rotating the engine at least once. Do all the prep work getting to the valves in the evening, then let the bike sit overnight let the valve cover rest in place to keep big things, like mice, out of there.
Then in the morning, do the adjustments and button everything up and go for a ride. This splits the task in half, and keeps you from doing it after working a full week OR getting up really early before a planned ride. It's mostly just a bit of wasted time that you can use to your advantage. For an explanation of the Kawasaki valve tool, see here. Lots of people have no trouble doing their valves without it, but there are others who can't imagine not using it.
Jump to: navigationsearch. Category : Engine. Personal tools Log in. Contents 1 How to mess up your valve adjustment 1. Measuring the gap when the cam lobes are actuating the valves What happens is that you align the timing mark on the crank, and then take the measurement, or try, and don't realise that the cam lobe is currently pushing the rocker arm down onto the valve. Split this job into two parts Do all the prep work getting to the valves in the evening, then let the bike sit overnight let the valve cover rest in place to keep big things, like mice, out of there.
General tips Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and which the intake valves and the specs for each. Hint : The exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; there are four of them. The intake valves are closest to the airbox; there are four of these, too. Don't drop one of the spark plug gaskets in the engine. In the pictures those gaskets just sit there all nice and pretty. They have been known to stick to the valve cover then fall off, or find other ways of getting into the engine.
Be careful. You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld and remove the bracket. The cover is no harder to get out with the bracket left in place than with the bracket removed. Consider this "optional, but not necessary". Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out, but a lot of experienced mechanics say to skip it.
Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that.
And remember, it isn't really necessary. Moving the radiator After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes through the front of the engine. It's the one that goes through the two brackets one on each side that the radiator bolts to.
If you back out that long bolt it's the last one really holding the bracket then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work.
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